Recently the Asahi News reported the following:
グルメ本の権威「ミシュランガイド」で、2011年版から東京のほかに横浜と鎌倉の店が新たに加わった。横浜と言えば、200店以上の飲食店が立ち並ぶ世界最大級のチャイナタウン・横浜中華街。街から星つきの店が出るだろうと地元は期待してきたが、24日に発表された掲載リストに中華料理店は一軒もなかった。
「高級から庶民の味まで、あらゆる店がある。いろいろな店で本当に食べてくれたのか」。中華街で観光客誘致の先頭に立っている「謝甜記(しゃてんき)」社長の謝成発さんは不満を漏らす。
横浜市であった記者発表によると、横浜エリアに三つ星はなく、二つ星は日本料理の2軒だけ。文明開化の代名詞・牛鍋の元祖など14軒が一つ星だった。謝さんは発表直前まで「星がついたら海外からの観光客も増えるだろう」と期待していただけに、ショックを隠さない。
ミシュランは事前に横浜で約300軒をリストアップ。昨年から覆面調査員が訪問を重ねたという。中華街のある経営者は「20軒ぐらいに調査員が食べに来たようだ」と話し、確かに調査はあったようだ。この経営者は「中華街の高級店は大型店が多く、ミシュランが好む、シェフの顔が分かるような中小規模の店は少ない」と「敗因」を分析してみせた。
中華街は国内外から年間約2千万人が訪れる観光名所でもある。別の中華街関係者は「最近は食べ放題の店が増えて、店を閉めた老舗(しにせ)も多い」と街の様変わりを指摘する。「店ごとに狙う客層が違う。すべての店がミシュランを目指すわけではないよ」
前向きな声もある。老舗の一つ「広東飯店」の鐘上智(しょうじょうち)常務は「うちは星のレベルに達していないと思っていた」とあくまで謙虚。「サービス水準の向上など目標にはなると思う。今回の結果を糧に、来年は中華街から一つでも選ばれるように頑張れたら」と語った。
10月に発表になった「京都・大阪・神戸」版でも、神戸の中華街「南京町」の店は選ばれていない。
In the authoritative gourmet book "Michelin Guide", shops in Yokohama and Kamakura besides those in Tokyo were newly added to the 2011 edition. Talking about Yokohama, Yokohama China Street was the largest among the world class Chinatowns that lined up with over 200 restaurants. Although these locals had been been expecting that some shops with stars would come out, in the published list announced on the 24th, there was not even one Chinese restaurant.
「All shops with taste from high class to popular are here. Is it not that you can really eat in different kinds of shops」。Xie Chengfat the president of "Shatenki" which stood at the front of Chinatown to attract tourists in Chinatown expressed dissatisfaction. According to a press release in Yokohama city, there were only two-star Japanese restaurants and three-star could no be found in Yokohama area. There were 14 one-star such as the pronoun for civilization and enlightenment - the originator of the beef sukiyaki. Mr. Xie did not conceal the shock because immediately before the announcement he waited with the expectation that "The number of tourists from foreign countries will also increase if a star is attached". Michelin listed up about 300 restaurants in Yokohama beforehand. It was said that the undercover investigators did the visit repeatedly last year. A manager from Chinatown said "The investigators seemed to have come to about 20 restaurants to eat", and certainly there seemed to have an investigation. This manager went on analyzing that "the cause of failure" was that "luxury stores in the Chinatown were mostly mega stores, Michelin liked that; and noticeable chef's face in medium and small-sized scale shops was not many". The Chinatown was a tourist spot with about 20 million people a year visiting from the inside and outside the country. Another person related to the Chinatown pointed out the change of the town , saying that "The number of shops of all-you-can-eat increases recently, and there are lots of established business houses (old shop with standing) being closed". 「The clientele that individual shops aim at is different. All shops are not aiming at Michelin. 」
There was a positive voice, too. Mr Zhong Shangzhi the managing director of a long-established old shop "The Guangdong Restaurant" was modest to the end, saying that "It was not thought that it had reached the level of star". It was said 「I think about making service improvement up to star level as the target. Based on the result of this year, if doing your best, one could be chosen from the Chinatown next year」. As for "Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe" edition announced in October, the shop "Nanjing-cho" in Chinatown of Kobe was not chosen either.
The disappointment of Chinatown restaurant owners was understandable. Star means business.
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